Wednesday 1 June 2011

The Kitchin, Leith, Edinburgh

This isnt my first visit to Tom Kitchin's award winning restaurant "The Kitchin" but it certainly was the best visit.

I'm a hard man to please and keep happy when it comes to good food and good service.  My last visit left me with a distinct bitter taste in my mouth, well the gnocci that night was burnt and we felt we were being served by a herd of cattle stampeding through the restaurant.

Tonight would be totally different.  On arrival I couldnt help but noticing that the bar area had had a very pleasant makeover since my last visit, not that we had time to take in a drink at the bar, our table was ready and waiting.

It was a table for two at 7pm on a Tuesday evening.  I was surprised to see the restaurant was quite busy on a school night, business must be doing well.  The Kitchin has a large window so diners could see a working kitchen during service.  It was good to see Tom running the pass tonight.

We opted to try Tom's Land & Sea Surprise Tasting Menu with matching wines.

To start with was an appetiser of Chilled Pea Soup served with Creme Fraiche.  It was delightful with the odd unblended pea in the soup to give added texture.  The first and last mouthfuls of the soup were for me a touch peppery for my liking.

It was followed by a light 'Shellfish Rockpool' served with west coast shellfish and sea vegetables in a chilled tomato consomme.  It was perfectly balanced and tasted lovely and fresh. 

Our penultimate fish dish was a Razor Clam cooked and served with diced vegetables, chorizo and lemon confit.  This to me was the highlight dish of the menu.  the different flavours worked brilliantly together, if I could I would have licked the plate clean.

Next up was Tom's signature dish of Pigs Head and a langoustine tail with a crispy ear salad.  A good sized portion as was all of his dishes.  The pork melted in your mouth and the crispy pig ear was a pork eaters delight.

We opted for the 'special' on the tasting menu, of locally caught lobster.  The decision was a no brainer really, hake or lobster, it took less than one second for both of us to decide on the lobster.

What we didnt expect was to be presented with our lobster still alive and kicking before cooking.

The lobster itself was grilled and dusted with manioc flour and basil butter.  Like everything so far, the cooking had been top notch. I was sure if it could the lobster would have jumped up and give me a kiss.  It certainly did not die in vain. 

By this time we were both struggling with the amount of food on the menu, we still had two courses to go.

The next course was a rump of Highland lamb served with red pepper piperade and a brochette of offal. 

The final course was new season Yorkshire strawberries served with a creme fraiche tart and strawberry sorbet.  A perfect pallet cleanser after a truely sumptious meal.

We decided to have our coffee and petit fours in the bar area.  During our coffee Tom came out to speak to the few people seated in the bar area which was a very nice personal touch.

Tonights menu was far more accomplished than any of my previous visits.  It was certainly more than a match for the godfather of Edinburgh's cooking scene, Martin Wishart and his restaurant 150 yards along the road.

Monday 4 April 2011

Arbutus, Soho London

I must admit as I slowly passed Arbutus's window I was a little worried. It looked very posh, very formal and not very me. However my first impressions were unfounded. On entering the restaurant we were greeted warmly at the front desk and shown to our table. Our table was in the corner near the serving area but was simply decorated, no white linen cloths for me to dirty, phew that was a relief. The place was buzzing and the atmosphere was relaxed, another tick in the correct box.

First thing I did was check out the wine list, can't help it. I again was pleasantly surprised, this may be a michelin star restaurant but in the wine list the prices were not the usual overpriced bottles. I picked a bottle of white rioja at just under £15. Next thing the menu.

To have the set menu or to not have the set menu. Can't help myself and have to pick off the main menu. For starter, I decide to have squid and mackerel burger, parsley, razor clams, sea pursalane. When the plate arrives it is brilliantly dressed, looks fresh and I can't wait to tuck in. I am not disappointed as its a sublime dish, the razor clams are zingy on my tongue and the burger full of complex tastes.

My husband decides on hand chopped scottish beef tartare and toasted sourdough bread. When it arrives its about the size of a muffin with a perfectly presented egg yolk nestled on top. I did have a taste and it did taste exquisite, although not something that I would usually order. James gobbled the whole thing up, was offered more bread when he finished his allocated slices but declined another tick in the box.

Completely satisfied after the starter was the mains. I played it safe and had something that I knew I would love. I had Bavette of beef (28 day aged), gratin dauphinoise and red wine sauce. The waitress who took my order stated - this is normally cooked meduim rare - fine with me was the response. When my order arrived the steak was beautiful. It cut so smoothly like a knife going through butter and just melted in my mouth. The dauphinoise was in a little copper pot, swimming in butter and cream. I had to ask James to finish it off for me as I found it just a tad on the rich side.

James had for his main course pieds et paquets which roughly translates as lambs tripe parcels and trotters. Our waitress double checked to make sure that James knew exactly what he was ordering. Being from Scotland we've had our fair share of sheep stomach in the haggis we regularly scoff. When James main arrived it came with a plate with 2 pieces of sheep stomach along with a small casserole dish with added tripe in a sauce, then finally it was a plate of bread topped with chopped up trotters. James didn't know where to start - he quickly devoured the trotters and moved onto the tripe. The tripe was beautiful. A million miles away from what I expected. James finished it all - the head waiter was impressed.

To pud or not to pud. We were having such a good time we though why not! Another thing I really liked about arbutus was that the wine and water was just left on the table. You were expected to pour the wine yourself not wait on a waiter - I like that! Its more relaxed.

Sorry I digress - back to the puds. James and I don't normally have puds but we thought why not. I had floating island, custard and pink pralines. Oh my goodness, it was beautiful. The floating island was about the size of a hockey puck and was just as light as a feather. The pralines added crunch and texture which contrasted brilliantly with the light meringue. The custard was light and deeply flecked with vanilla.

James had cold chocolate fondant, chocolate wafer and salted caramel ice cream. The fondant was dark and full of flavour, perfectly matched with the salted ice cream. Oh did I mention we had a desert wine as well.... well we were enjoying ourselves.

Completely sated we finished our meals with coffee and liquours before retrieving our coats. We had both had a thoroughly enjoyable taste experience.

Cost - 3 Course lunch for 2, a bottle of wine, 2 glasses of desert wine, 2 coffees and liquors - £110.

Tuesday 22 March 2011

Wallace & Co, Putney, London

Wallace & Co, Putney, London


On our final day in London we found ourselves at Euston Station with nine hours to kill before our return home on the overnight sleeper.  What can you do in London with nine hours to kill on a Sunday?  Being a Scot, my first thought was pub, my better half however had another idea, "What about a traditional Sunday Lunch?" she asks.

Now London is a big city, where do we go to eat a good Sunday lunch?  The Wolseley had been mentioned to us earlier in the week as serving up a good Sunday lunch.  However there website didn't inspire us standing on the concourse at Euston.  I remembered Gregg Wallace had opened a deli/caf/restaurant some where.  A quick jump onto the net again, yes Sunday lunch served.  A quick call and we were booked in for 1.30pm.  Off we headed, exactly where, we did not know.

We came across Putney Bridge so we jumped off the train, all to find that we were on the wrong side of the Thames, a quick walk across the water (no I can't walk across water but a footbridge would suffice) and we were in Putney and quickly wandered into the restaurant.

On entering we found the place to be buzzing.  Obviously this was a popular place and had a good "feel" to it.  We were first met by a display of Veg, to the left a counter selling preserves and all other sorts of goodies, which attracted my eye.  You see where I come from is a deprived area, deprived that is of choice of fresh veg.  Unless you venture down to the farmers market once a month, Asda is your only choice of 'fresh' veg.

We were taken to our table and duly ordered two roast beef lunches.

The meal arrived just as I imagined it would, two slabs of roast beef, potatoes a big Yorkie Pud and a dish a vegetables on the side.  This was Sunday as it should be everywhere.  No fancy presentation, good honest food, just like your Mum used to cook.

We quickly devoured our lunch, the beef was lovely and the buttered cabbage was to die for.  If anything wasn't quite right it was probably the potatoes, maybe a touch undercooked.

Next came our pudding, I opted for a delightful Lemon Meringue Pie, which was just as you always imagined it should be, light and tasty.  Jax ordered the sticky toffee pudding which was certainly the better of the two desserts, a tough admission for me because I usually hate sticky toffee pudding, but this was a very very good pudding.  Soft and light with a small amount of nuts through it.  Delicious.

Just as we were finishing, the main man himself, Gregg Wallace popped over to say hello which was a nice touch.  Though I never considered that I looked like him until he mentioned that we must have been separated at birth....... that's one to think about, maybe I could make a career being his stunt double in Masterchef?  

Food 8/10
Value for Money 10/10

Cost: 2 mains, two desserts and two alcoholic drinks £41.00

Would I recommend? Hell yeah.

Thursday 10 March 2011

A Scotsmans View of London

I've been about a bit, seen some great cities around the world, New York, Paris, Toronto and Sydney but theres something quite appealing about London.

What may you ask? Things that Londoners do take for granted. Sport for instance, you have Wembley and Twickenham and all the regular and one of sporting events they bring, you have 5 Premiership football teams, the O2 and soon to be completed, the Olympic Venues.  Yes, when it comes to sport and entertainment London has got most other countries in the world beat.

You also have Olympia, Earls Court and the Excel Centre for all the varied and different events they bring to you.

Londons West End, surely the worlds best theatre district bar none.  With an insane amount of major theatres to choose from (something like 42?) theres something to suite everyones tastes.  When was the last time you visited a West End Show or have you become imune to there charm and easy availability?

Cultural attractions, now where do I begin, Parliament, Big Ben, Tower Bridge, Tower of London ...... the list is almost endless.  Make no mistake my friend, this is where the English speaking world started, this is the real home of the free.  We do have a lot to answer for though ....

Shopping my pet hate but a visit to Bond Street, Harrods etc and all the designer boutiques would be enough to exhaust even the most ardent shopaholics, but is a tv worth and extra £200 so it can be delivered by a Harrods van?  I think not, but I am Scots afterall.

Underground, overground, oh so tempting to start talking about the wombles of Wimbledon Common here, but no, here I'm talking about London transport.  An integrated transport system in Scotland usually revolves around making sure a pub is next to the train station or bus station.  In London, its terrific.  Take Canning Town for instance, Bus station, DLR and Underground all combined with each other.  Really you don't know how lucky you are until you visit other cities at home or abroad. The amount of people I over heard complaining about late trains or underground delays.  People you don't know how fortunate you are, suck it up and live with it.

But tell me, why are you so unfriendly? Take the tube for instance.  Why don't people speak to anyone, or a quick hello or brief smile?  Why is it if you make eye contact with anyone do they immediately bury there head deeper into the Metro?  Heavens forbid if you smile and say hello, we made that mistake one day on the Northern Line and she jumped out of the carriage in shock and re-entered our carriage at the next door.  A mean feat since we were moving at the time. We wondered if we were deemed to strange by showing a common courtesy or was she the weird one with her bright blue lipstick?

What I'm trying to say is London must be one of the greatest places to live in the world, its not perfect but do Londoners really appreciate what a wonderful city they live in?  I can't wait to get back down.

One final thing, can someone ask Boris Johnson if we could get our £6.60 back from a ticket machine at DLR Greenwich which took our money and issued no ticket?  Machine 81 if your interested......

Monday 7 March 2011

Hampshire Bar & Restaurant, Leicester Square, London

This meal was part of a package with a West End Show, so expectations were low.

Just on Leicester Square the Hampshire is a Radisson Hotel, a chain we have stayed in quite frequently on our travels across the country.  Our only previous meal experience at a Radisson wasn't the best.

We were on the pre-theatre menu, so choice was limited, see what I mean, expectations were low, quick, cheap and nasty food is usually the order of the day, surely we've all had a heavy dullop of mushroom risotto on these specials.

Today however would be different.

I ordered a butternut squash and apple soup followed by calves livers.

Jax went for the wild Scottish smoked salmon on a bellini with horseradish sauce and for her main a corn fed chicken with fondant potatoes.

A generous bowl of soup arrived with two thinly sliced grilled apple slices floating on top of the soup. 

The butternut squash soup was very sweet to such an extent I wondered if it should have been a dessert dish.  A good pinch of salt and pepper soon toned this down and made it a very good starter.

Jax's starter was a good sized portion of smoked salmon and delivered on all levels, lets face it, you can't get smoked salmon wrong now can you?

My main of calves liver was beautifully cooked, just pink in the middle and tasted lovely.  Again a very generous portion size. 

The corn fed chicken was tasty and nicely juicy.  A very moreish dish.  Again you won't starve with the size of the portion.  The fondant potatoe was fine, cooked and seasoned well.

Overall we really enjoyed this meal, even more considering it was a pre theatre meal and were expecting the worst.  This restaurant was very enjoyable and a return is on the cards, perhaps taking in the pianist who was just starting when we had to dash off to catch our show.

Food 6/10 - well executed, fine food.
Service 9/10 - almost faultless service, excellent.

Friday 4 March 2011

So near, yet so far, Odettes, Primrose Hill

Mrs Haveforkwilleat has been wanting to eat here for years and I mean years. 

She fell in love with Bryns style of cooking ever since she saw him beating Angela Hartnett in the Great British Menu.  Yes that long ago when Bryn was a mere but talented sous chef.

He now has his own place, Odettes, buying it outright in 2008. Whilst he has a great reputation, Mr Michelin Man keeps driving by his restaurant without stopping.  Sadly on our visit today, I can see why.

Odettes is set in the leafy suburb of Primrose Hill, 5 minutes from Chalk Hill tube station. 

On entering the restaurant, we were greeted by the restaurant manager who was quite charming and directed us to a small but adequate round table in the corner by some double doors. The ambience was relaxed and yes I can see why it might be described as romantic.  So far so good.

We opted to eat from the ala carte menu rather than the lunchtime set menu.

I opted to have a starter of pigs head and black pudding terrine, Jax opted for the wood pigeon and foie gras.

Both tasted lovely, with perhaps my terrine needing a bit more seasoning, but this is down to personal taste.  Jax did find a bit of errant shot in the final bite of her wood pigeon breast, but we didn't make a fuss of it, since these things happen. The wood pigeon was cooked to perfection and melted in your mouth. This bird died for a good and just cause.

Sadly things started going downhill from here.

For our mains, I opted for Halibut Coq Au Vin and Jax a Turbot with clams. Jax popped to powder her nose and whilst away our mains arrived. I was happily day dreaming and didn't notice that they had put the wrong plate down in front of me.  A few seconds later my sauce arrived and as the waiter pointed to my plate and said sauce for your course.

I unknowingly poured the sauce over my course. Failing to recognise that the wrong course had been put down in front of me.

Only when my wife sat down and took her first bite did the penny drop. We queried the dish with the manager who's response was "did I do that, oh well you've tried both dishes now", but missing the point that the wrong sauce was on the wrong plate.  He tried to make us feel it was our fault that he placed the wrong food in front of us. No apology nothing.

Needless to say the staff avoided all contact with us after then. My fury was obviously apparent in my face.

We declined desserts and cheese and opted to pay our bill and leave as quickly as possible.  It was only when we picked up our jackets that a waiter (who didn't serve the courses to us) apologised to us. 

Sadly the damage was done.

Please Mr Michelin Man, keep driving on.

Food 5/10 (hard to say due to sauce mix up)
Service 2/10

Two starters, two mains and a bottle of wine, £102.